I Was Born to be a Regularfoot

It's true.

I ride waves with my right foot forward, but things were not supposed to be this way. I now understand people like Chastity (now Chaz) Bono, or Meg from Family Guy feel - people who had sex change operations because they felt like a men. I am a goofyfoot but I feel like a regularfoot.

I am right-handed, a key predictor of regularfootedness. I also skate and snowboard regular. I have tried doing those goofy and I just can't. It doesn't feel natural.

I love Santa Barbara and its litany of point breaks. I want to ride them frontside.

I see lefts and imagine I am Slater doing crazy tight turns, or Dane doing fin wofts.

I see rights and imagine I am Parko spreading butter all over everything.

Alas, I am destined to surf goofy. I could have been better than Slater if I were born a regularfoot (and that's my claim going forward), but it's too late to change. I will have to settle for surfing Rincon on my backhand, Uluwatu on my forehand, and still going straight on all these LA closeouts.

Sad, it is.